Gibson Model D Remote Run/Stop and Throttle Controls

I'm guessing the person who installed the Petter AC1Z diesel engine on this Gibson tractor just hadn't gotten around to installing engine controls where the operator could reach them from the driver's seat, as both the throttle and stop lever were only on the engine. This photo below shows the Run/Stop lever, and under it is the throttle control, in which the threaded knob is turned out to slow the engine down and turned in to speed up the engine. You can kind of see a string on the stop lever, which was a less-than-ideal method of shutting the engine down from the driver's seat.

The first task I tackled was to install a rod to the Run/Stop lever, but I needed somewhere to attach it to at the driver's seat, so I made a bracket, hopefully similar to what Gibson would have had. I found two holes on the chain guard that I presumed the original bracket must have bolted to. I drilled a hole through the bracket I made for the rod to go through.

I put a Z-bend in the engine end of the rod to fit into the lever's hole.

And of course I had to make a knob on the Sheldon lathe for the end of the rod.

The knob is nothing fancy but it is very functional. Here it is in the Stop position.

Here it is pushed forward in the Run position.

Stop position.

Run position.

Now on to the throttle control. I ordered a throttle cable from Amazon for $10. There is an existing bracket on the engine's throttle control so I made a cable clamp from brass (again on the Sheldon lathe) that will attach onto the bracket and that will also clamp onto the throttle cable. The finished piece was about 1/2-inch in diameter.

The bracket was about .062-inch thick so I cut a slot in the cable clamp just a thousandth wider so it would be a snug fit on the bracket.

I drilled and tapped a 1/4-20 thread through the cable clamp to accept a screw, then drilled a 5/32-inch perpendicular hole through the clamp for the throttle cable wire to pass through.

Below is a photo of the clamp I made to test out the concept. I would probably still be using this clamp but the hole through the threaded area made the screw weak and it broke after several trial fittings.

Below is the cable clamp put in place on the throttle bracket and tightened onto the throttle cable.

I made a couple sheet metal guides to keep the throttle cable from getting into places it shouldn't. One guide is on an intake manifold stud and the other one is on a base mounting bolt.

This next photo shows the whole enchilada. It would have been ideal to have the throttle cable go straight to the throttle control on the engine instead of taking a circuitous route, but the throttle control on the engine was in the wrong orientation to do so.

Now I feel safer knowing I can kill the engine from the drivier's seat in an emergency and not have to rely on a piece of string to do it, and I can also control the engine speed at will. No more jumping off the tractor to adjust RPM.